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Phang Nga is one of those places where the landscape does the talking. Spread across the narrow peninsula of southern Thailand, the province takes its name from its capital town but is known the world over for something far more dramatic: the limestone karsts that rise from Phang Nga Bay in shapes so improbable they seem borrowed from a painter's imagination rather than from geology. These towers of rock, some hollow, some riddled with caves, emerge from water so still on calm mornings that the reflections beneath them look more convincing than the formations above.

The bay itself became internationally recognisable after appearing in a 1974 James Bond film, and the island known locally as Ko Tapu has carried the nickname James Bond Island ever since. That association brings visitors, but the bay is large enough and varied enough that the crowds thin quickly once you move beyond the most photographed angle. Mangrove channels cut through the shallower reaches, and sea kayaking through these passages reveals a quieter Phang Nga, one of dripping ferns, roosting birds, and the particular silence that comes from being enclosed by rock on all sides.